Dips from the Depths

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Christopher Hirst explores two exceptional starters bestowed by the ever-generous cod Forty years ago, taramasalata was a near-obligatory dinner party starter, usually accompanied by its vegetarian brother hummus. Following this peak, the lurid pink dip, its day-go hue imparted more by e-number dyes than tarama (cod roe), steadily fell from favour. Its ubiquity and harsh […]