How a Matriarch Produced Marvels with Moss

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Myrtle Allen, described in the Irish Times as ‘the matriarch of modern Irish cuisine’, died on 13 June at the age of 94. Christopher Hirst recalls how she introduced him to a memorable dessert that enshrined her culinary watchwords – ‘local, seasonal, organic, flavoursome, sustainable and superbly cooked’ My first visit to Ballymaloe House was […]